I am thinking of having my hull side windows recessed into the hull, for those who have done it, Jim and Alan perhaps?
what sort of width would you recommend for the internal recess around the perimeter for sealing with tape and sealant? and also the panel itself has to be cut smaller than the recess to allow for expansion? I have heard to allow 60mm for a glueing and tape width. i was hoping to get away with less..
recessed windows
recessed windows
Mine is 60mm IIRC. I'll measure them today if I remember. Can't say how effective they are yet though. But remember you need to have at least 10mm expansion room all round, (more is probably better) and room for sealant as well as the adhesive tape.
recessed windows
Hi Madaz, I have had some dramas with my windows popping in the heat. (HEAT. opposite to COLD. For cold, see Tassie.
Problem 1 is because I didn't give enough clearance around the outside and the second one was useing a crappy sealant/adhesive and the third was sanding, priming and painting the area to be bonded. I have re-done most of them and they seem to be OK. I was told not to use Sikaflex by a few people, but to use a product that escapes me at the moment or Roof and Gutter Sealant. I used the latter because I couldn't find whatever the first choice was. The r&g gets soft in the sun and lets go with the expansion of the window. It also didn't take too well to the painted area on the windows. I used the best automotive products I could find that is used on plastic bumpers on cars.
My second method was as follows.
I used double sided 3M tape around the inside edge, (same as the first time) which helps the bonding and sets an even gap for the sealant and also stops the gunk getting on the inside of the boat. Sand the area to be bonded. Tape the outside of the hull around the window cutout. Use a couple of screws on the bottom to rest the window on and keep the outside edge clearance gap even. Apply the sealant/bonding product, I used FixSil FS200, black, this time, details at http://www.fixtech.com.au If the area to be bonded is white as mine was I finger painted the whole area with the FixSil to make it black because you can see whatever bits are not covered with sealant through the acrilic once the job is done. Screw as per your plans.
Good luck.
Jim.
Problem 1 is because I didn't give enough clearance around the outside and the second one was useing a crappy sealant/adhesive and the third was sanding, priming and painting the area to be bonded. I have re-done most of them and they seem to be OK. I was told not to use Sikaflex by a few people, but to use a product that escapes me at the moment or Roof and Gutter Sealant. I used the latter because I couldn't find whatever the first choice was. The r&g gets soft in the sun and lets go with the expansion of the window. It also didn't take too well to the painted area on the windows. I used the best automotive products I could find that is used on plastic bumpers on cars.
My second method was as follows.
I used double sided 3M tape around the inside edge, (same as the first time) which helps the bonding and sets an even gap for the sealant and also stops the gunk getting on the inside of the boat. Sand the area to be bonded. Tape the outside of the hull around the window cutout. Use a couple of screws on the bottom to rest the window on and keep the outside edge clearance gap even. Apply the sealant/bonding product, I used FixSil FS200, black, this time, details at http://www.fixtech.com.au If the area to be bonded is white as mine was I finger painted the whole area with the FixSil to make it black because you can see whatever bits are not covered with sealant through the acrilic once the job is done. Screw as per your plans.
Good luck.
Jim.