Wheel, tiller and autopilots
Just pointing out my preference would be to have the bearing support area stronger than the shafts. On my boat i have a daggerboard and kick-up rudders, so the chance of damaging the rudder bearings is pretty small anyway. But I did make a point of building the daggerboard case much more strongly than the board itself.Jim wrote:While the above comments may be of concern to some, you can only prepare for so many "so what ifs". The bottom bearing area on the Easys is seriously strong as it passes through and is glassed to the keelson (not sure about the spelling). The top bearing support is not so strong and doesn't need to be as it is some distance from the bottom where all the action takes place. In normal forward motion to bend or rip off the rudder you would have to first get past the mini keels. If you manage to do all that, then I would suggest you don a life jacket and grab your EPERB because you will be in deep s#*t and your boat will not be well.
Don't over think things, just follow the designers plans, enjoy the build and hit the water, not the rocks.
To me that wasn't overthinking it. Just sensible. I also had a "sacrificial" few inches of foam/glass on my rudder tips. Only one has now. The other on worked!