internal flooring

Tips and tricks, suggestions and ideas to help make the final product comfortable inside
Romeo
Posts: 49
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 10:32 pm
Location: Western Australia

Re: internal flooring

Post by Romeo » Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:19 pm

I have followed the lower chine and you dont notice the curve its divided by frame 5 anyhow. Behind frame 7 I leveled up from the rear of the chine for the shower and toilet. you end up with a step up for the toilet in the last section which I will probably put accross the hull as well.
YIY Romeo

Chrisg
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 6:55 am
Location: Country Victoria

Re: internal flooring

Post by Chrisg » Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:20 pm

I built up the level of the lower chine between frames 5 and 6 by approx 30mm and tappered it off as it went fore and aft. Between frame 4 and 3 a false chine was required lower than the actual chine to allow the level floor to be project forward to frame 3. Its a bit of extra work but looks fine. The cabin soles between frame 3 and 7 in each hull will be glued in permanently this coming weekend. :D Another milestone :!: :!:
Chris & Michelle

Outback Dreamer - Sarah 23
http://www.outbackdreamer.com

Jim
Posts: 691
Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 8:25 am
Location: Cairns

Re: internal flooring

Post by Jim » Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:26 pm

Visually you won't notice the floor rising towards the front, but while the floor is coming up the ceiling is coming down and the headroom diminishes rapidly. 50mm or whatever I lowered the floor by is quite noticeable compared to the other side which is as per the plans. It will be a much better work area once the sole is down.
Jim.

Beav222
Posts: 188
Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2015 2:25 am
Location: USA
Contact:

Re: internal flooring

Post by Beav222 » Sun Apr 24, 2016 2:01 am

Hi all,
I see the last post is from 2012 but I hope someone is still reading. My question is what can I do at the stringer stage to either fix this or make it easier to lay the soles later.
What I mean is could I change the shape of the stringer that the floor sole sits on to make it level? Or could I add to the stringer to make the floor sole level? Either way I could save a lot of time doing it in the hull build stage before the ply skin goes on.
I'm also thinking about rounding the inside corners of the stringers before they go on the frames. This does a couple things. 1) I can use a router to cut the notches in the frames which saves me time. I just use a template to cut them and most are the same size. 2) that makes the inside edge nice and round with a finished edge. How has everyone else done it? Have you used a sander and sanded the edges or left them with sharp edges??

Thoughts, the more the merrier.
Thanks, Dean
Dean :lol: & Debra :mrgreen:

"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than those you did. So throw off the bowlines and sail away. "

— Mark Twain American Writer.

Beav_222@yahoo.com

sea_bee
Posts: 107
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2011 6:09 pm
Location: Pillar Valley NSW

Re: internal flooring

Post by sea_bee » Fri May 06, 2016 8:26 pm

Keep in mind that many of the stringers end up with structural locker shelves attached to the top edge. Rounding off that top edge would reduce the bond between the stringer and the shelf. Best would be to round the bottom edge and to bevel the top edge at the angle of the side of the boat so that the top edge is horizontal.

This doesn't help with the routing out of the notches, but keep in mind some advice from the designer. He suggested that the joints should not be tight; "not cabinet making". Bench testing of epoxy joints will show that the glued joints are stronger when there is a loose fit for the epoxy to penetrate.

Chris

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