internal flooring

Tips and tricks, suggestions and ideas to help make the final product comfortable inside
Chrisg
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 6:55 am
Location: Country Victoria

internal flooring

Post by Chrisg »

What type and style of floor have people used on their boats ? Initially we've looked at epoxy coat the ply floor and routering in lines then painted white, but given the ply floor has sheets of ply with the grain going at right angles in two places that option may look odd. Any thoughts or comments?
Chris & Michelle

Outback Dreamer - Sarah 23
http://www.outbackdreamer.com
Smooth Cruiser
Posts: 583
Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 1:51 am
Location: Brisbane

internal flooring

Post by Smooth Cruiser »

I had a thin cork laminate which was then laquered. This looked good and was comfortable underfoot but could be slippery when wet - not too good just inside the doorway so I had a large non slip mat in the door entrance to dry your feet on. Light and fairly cheap though so not a bad option.
mikeb
Posts: 136
Joined: Wed May 26, 2010 3:01 am

internal flooring

Post by mikeb »

Hi Chris

I have vinyl planks with a wood grain pattern. It's like normal vinyl but they come as a plank about 1200mm by 150mm and have a backing that stiffens them up. They were easy to lay but can be slippery when wet. Mike
mahnamahna
Posts: 580
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 4:48 pm
Location: Gosford NSW

internal flooring

Post by mahnamahna »

Smooth, did you lacquer the cork yourself? If so, did you get to use the cork floor pre lacquer? And if so what made you want to lacquer it?



I have been considering cork for both the cockpit and perhaps even inside, but unlacquared so that it retains its natural properties of non slip and soft feel, its natural sound deadening and insulating properties and as a result it being cool under foot, even when the sun has blazed down on it for hours. Lacquer removes some of these nice properties, especially the non slip and cool under foot features.



My wifes concern is it getting very dirty or worse permanently stained with either wine spills, blood from fish etc. and perhaps uneven fading with some areas getting sunlight others not, and thinks it has to be lacquered but I favor non lacquered for above reasons, mainly non slip, but I just like the texture and look of raw cork.



As we currently cant agree or have doubts about cork we are also looking into various types of rubber and vinyl tiles, but none have the kind of properties I find that natural cork has. (I am even considering having cork tiles that are only lightly adhered so that they can be easily replaced.



Can anyone shed any light in this regard?
Smooth Cruiser
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Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 1:51 am
Location: Brisbane

internal flooring

Post by Smooth Cruiser »

Mine was laquered when I got it.



I wonder about staining unlaquered too - even salt staining?
mySerenity
Posts: 755
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 7:36 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia
Contact:

internal flooring

Post by mySerenity »

Marine carpet throughout. Would I do it again? Mmm, may be in the hull soles as its really nice underfoot and also reduces water noise, I would try home-made 'timber-strip-looking' upper bridgedeck. Wet feet are definately a problem, I strongly echo Smooth Cruisers comment
slippery when wet - not too good just inside the doorway
.



The yacht is there to have fun on and tip-toeing around with wet feet is not on our agenda, especially in a swell.



Having said that, a floor that is smooth is much easier to keep clean, only needs a brush as opposed to a vacuum cleaner. We have a long-haired maiden on board and hair gets left everywhere :evil: :evil: :evil:
James
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Chrisg
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 6:55 am
Location: Country Victoria

internal flooring

Post by Chrisg »

Hi James

I like your thoughts on the floor and are the way we are going to go. Just need to work out the issue of which way the grain in the bridgedeck floor ply runs. Its simply to have the ply running across from one hull to another and stronger, yet not satisfactory for the floor type discussed. Maybe a a couple of sheets running fore and aft under the cabin area with the balance running across, or perhaps a just place 4mm ply as flooring and run the grooves in it and finished off with a layer of 2 part floor coating or epoxy. thats enough of my ramblings
Chris & Michelle

Outback Dreamer - Sarah 23
http://www.outbackdreamer.com
Chrisg
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 6:55 am
Location: Country Victoria

Re: internal flooring

Post by Chrisg »

We are now looking at layout the floor in each hull. :) The plan shows the floor panels placed on top of the lower chine. :o If we do that then the floor is not level from approx frame 2 to frame 9, and is more of a concave shape. :? Is this an issue :?:
What did other easy builders do :?:
Chris & Michelle

Outback Dreamer - Sarah 23
http://www.outbackdreamer.com
Jim
Posts: 691
Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 8:25 am
Location: Cairns

Re: internal flooring

Post by Jim »

On the first hull I followed the plans, which is to follow the waterline chine which ends up with the floor going uphill towards the front. On the second hull I put the floor lower towards the front of the cabin which gave an increase of about 50mm in headroom. If I did it again I would go lower again in both cabins as you don't need all that much floor space there and the extra headroom is better.
Jim.
Daryl Reid
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2010 7:15 pm

Re: internal flooring

Post by Daryl Reid »

Hi all still trying to come to terms with the flooring level i have thought about putting a 68mm piece of timber on top of the bottom chime as a reference point in the centre of the boat then going foward and back on this level. It seems to work that by the time you get to the front and rear of the boat the floor height is just below the chime this way the floor is level the entire length. only thing there is you do loose a bit of head height , does anyone think thats anygood or just follow the lower chime and have the floor curved, wondering is it noticeable cheers Daryl Sarah 28
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